The pattern incorporates an inverted underarm pleat that adds fullness to the garment and a long sleeve, the style of which dates back to the nineteenth century. During this time period, the underarm seam was positioned towards the front of the sleeve. It is not evident as to whether moving this seam forward was to reduce bulk of fabric formed by the seam and the pleat sitting together, or to create a better "hang" to the sleeve. Whatever the reason, it has been reproduced on this garment to maintain authenticity.
